This white from the Douro, aptly named "New Moon in Old Vineyards," certainly presents a puzzle. It appears to be the product of a considerable patience – a reflection, perhaps, of a long aging process. The robust character of the Douro’s ancient grape varieties is surprisingly balanced, or is it the harsh, sun-drenched slopes and terroir that imbue it with such intensity? A hearty black pork dish would be a most welcome accompaniment.
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