This “Abafado Molecular” from Luis Pato in Bairrada isn’t your typical rosé. The Baga grapes deliver an unexpectedly concentrated expression, as if they’ve undergone a rather clever, albeit molecular, “steaming” process. It’s a wine that clearly wants to tell a story – a slightly enigmatic one, admittedly – and one that pairs beautifully with a grilled vegetable dish, particularly with some lovely grelos.
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